Aiptasia, the pest anemone that can easily take over a saltwater tank and outcompete other ornamental invertebrates, is the bane of many a saltwater aquarist. While there are both mechanical and chemical means of battling aiptasia, a biological solution is best for a number of reasons. While there are other fishes, such as the copperband butterflyfish, which are known aiptasia-eaters, many of these fishes are not particularly hardy and may be difficult to wean onto a captive diet after the aiptasia is gone. Enter the aiptasia-eating filefish.

Although known for its prowess in the battle against pest anemones for quite some time, it has not been frequently imported for the marine aquarium trade. This is a shame given that it is a more reliable species than say a copperband butterflyfish when it comes to eating aiptasia, and it is far hardier in captivity. This fish is also considered reef-compatible (although individuals may nip at duncans, dendros, clams, and plate corals), and it readily accepts a captive diet (e.g., mysis shrimp).

The aiptasia-eating filefish should only be added to a peaceful community tank of 30 gallons or more.

Pom pom crabs (Lybia tessellata) are an interesting and reef compatible addition to any aquarium, although, owing to their size, they make particularly good nano tank inhabitants. This crab, sometimes called a boxing crab, carries two small anemones-one in each claw-which it uses as both a defense mechanism and a means of capturing food. These peaceful animals will only grow to about an inch and do not pose a risk to any but the smallest fishes. They may drop their anemones (Bunodeopsis spp.) when molting. This Indo-Pacific omnivore may be harassed or even eaten by some predatory fishes, so it is best to introduce the pom pom crab with the lights out and very close to the rock work, where it can quickly find refuge.

Amongst the gastropods (Class Gastropoda or snails), most marine aquarists have at least heard of the turbo snails from the Family Turbinidae. Turbo snails, along with their relatives, the Astraea snails, are fantastic grazers and can be long-lived aquarium animals if provided with the proper husbandry.

Algae-grazing snails from the Family Turbinidae are frequently employed for janitorial duties in marine aquaria. In fact, in the United States it is the rare saltwater aquarium that does not have at least one species from this family. These snails are commonly sold as turban snails, turbo snails and star snails. Like trochus snails, turbo snails have a conical shell which, in the case of some of the larger Turbo spp., can grow to half a foot in size. Turbo snails can be differentiated from trochus snails by looking at their undersides. You will see a large opening (called the aperture) with a white operculum (the piece which closes off the aperture when the snails body is retracted) on a turbo snail. Trochus snails have a brown operculum.

While these snails are common in the marine aquarium hobby, too many aquarists give too little thought to their husbandry requirements. Snails in general are complex animals that can be badly injured or killed by sudden changes in water parameters. Unless the salinity of the holding water and the destination aquarium are very, very close, all snails should be given plenty of time to acclimate using a drip acclimatization procedure.

One of the leading causes of premature death for turbo and astraea snails is the fact that sub-tropical and temperate species are added to tropical aquaria. While snails, especially ones from shallow water environs and intertidal zones, are very tolerant when it comes to thermal conditions, long term exposure in a tropical system will greatly shorten the lifespan of a temperate snail. When it comes to snails that are both temperate and tropical, be sure your retailer is only selling you animals collected from tropical (and, in some cases, sub-tropical) regions. This can make the difference between your turbo or astraea snail living a matter of months or a matter of years (even decades in some cases).

One potential downside to both turbo and astraea snails is the fact that the environmental conditions in the aquarium often do not match these animals natural habitat. Astraea snails, for example, are collected from rubble zones and reef flats where they seldom have occasion to fall from a height and land upside down. If they do happen to land upside down, the chaotic nature of the currents and wave action in these regions generally rights the snail before its vulnerable underside is threatened. In the aquarium, however, it is not unusual to see an Astraea snail upside down in the sand and unable to right itself. If left unattended, the snail will most likely die.

In general, however, tropical snails from the Family Turbinidae make good animals for the tropical saltwater reef aquarium. They are excellent grazers, and those that are collected from the tropics and appropriately cared for will provide years of service, not to mention fascinating behavior for the observant aquarist.

Maxima Clams – The Basics

While the beginning aquarist should probably perfect his or her reef-keeping skills before acquiring a maxima clam, the intermediate hobbyists may well be ready for this gorgeous animal. Maxima clams are a species of clam within the genus Tridacna. Species of Tridacna clams commonly seen in the marine aquarium hobby include T. crocea, T. derasa, T. gigas, and T. squamosa. While many clams are both wild-collected and farmed, October 2009 was the first time that wild-collected maxima clams were available to marine aquarium hobbyists in North America.

It probably goes without saying, but maxima clams, like all clams, belong in reef tanks and not fish-only systems. In a standard, well-maintained reef tank set-up with typical reef tank filtration, a maxima clam should do exceedingly well. In a fish-only system, the calcium levels will probably be too low, and likely the fish will harass and, ultimately kill the clam.

Light and Flow Requirements for Maxima Clams

When it comes to more specific parameters within the reef tank, maxima clams, like many corals, prefer high intensity lighting and strong flow. Because maxima clams, unlike many other sand-dwelling clams, prefer to attach themselves to rocky substrate, they can (and should) be placed on the rockwork in the upper third of the aquarium. This will insure they get enough light to properly maintain the symbiotic algae (zooxanthellae) these clams host. In turn, the algae, in combination with the clam’s regular filter feeding behavior, will provide most of the nutrients the animal needs to survive. Having said this, it is recommended to target feed maxima clams several times a week in most situations, but more on that below.

Other Reef Tank Parameters to Watch with Maxima Clams

In terms of other parameters, the staff at Blue Reef Aquatics emphasizes consistency above all else. There are, however, two parameters which can rapidly stress a clam and, ultimately, cause its demise. First is temperature. Maintaining a normal tropical reef temperature with less than two degrees of daily fluctuation is ideal, but it is absolutely essential to make sure the temperature never exceeds 82-degrees Fahrenheit. A normal reef pH is recommended, again with consistency being emphasized, but the aquarist keeping maxima clams should never allow the pH to exceed 8.4. Too high a temperature or pH will have a rapid, negative impact on maxima clams and must be avoided at all cost.

Supplemental Feedings for a Maxima Clam

Many people do not believe it is necessary to target feed maxima clams. At Blue Reef Aquatics, we recommend that most people keeping maximas target feed their clams at least once per week. The trouble is that while these animals do host symbiotic algae and filter feed, most reef aquarists over-filter their reef tanks, especially if they are keeping more sensitive coral species such as those with small polyps. As such, there is not as much available food in many reef tanks. To insure the health of a maxima clam in an over-filtered reef tank, consider feeding commercially-prepared phytoplankton with a turkey baster at least twice per week. Simply broadcast the food up current from the clam, and allow the food to be carried to the clam.

A Centerpiece Species

Overall, maxima clams are beautiful animals that can become the centerpiece of a gorgeous reef aquarium in one’s home or office. While they have a reputation of being hard-to-keep, in reality maxima clams are quite hardy if the right environmental conditions are provided and maintained.

A clean, small bucket works fine for a dipping container. In most cases you will begin with water from the tank into which the fish will be placed after the dip. Be sure that the temperature is about the same in both the dip and the tank from which the fish is coming. It is essential to watch the fish throughout the entire dipping process. If the fish begins to thrash or show signs of extreme distress, remove it from the dip at once.

In my opionion, the best dipping agents for the home aquarist dealing with a crypto outbreak in marine fishes are freshwater and Methylene Blue. Dipping an infested or infected fish in a freshwater and Methylene Blue dip is highly effective when it comes to removing external parasites and even dealing with infectious diseases.

Here’s what to do: 1) Place the infested fish in a hyposaline quarantine tank for a minimum of 28 days. 2) Perform repeated dips in freshwater (same pH and temperature as fish’s water) dosed with Methylene Blue (follow instructions on bottle for dosing amounts). 3) Regularly change the quarantine tank’s water during the treatment period.

The dip should last no longer than five minutes and should be shortened if the fish shows obvious distress.

  The seahorse must be fed. In the best-case scenario, newly introduced seahorses will have a constant supply of live food (Mysid shrimp, Artemia, pods, etc.) during the daylight hours. One of the best ways to achieve this is to have a mature refugium attached to the seahorse’s display tank, but an increasing number of live food products make caring for harder-to-feed animals ever easier. While many seahorses can be trained onto a captive diet of non-live foods in time, the seahorse-keeper, more often than not, will become adept at culturing live foods. Culturing live foods is not hard and the benefits to your animals and reef will be amazing!

Second only to diet, maintaining stability in an appropriate environment is the most important thing the aquarist can do to insure the long term health of his or her seahorses. Stable water conditions appropriate for most tropical saltwater fishes will suffice, but excellent filtration is required. It is essential that the returns be diffused so as not to create dangerous currents in the tank, and the seahorses must have structure on which they can anchor themselves (e.g., coral skeletons, plants, etc.). Loads of live rock is certainly appropriate, as this will help produce the type of naturally occurring live prey seahorses appreciate. A planted tank with a deep sandbed can be a stunning seahorse display that mimics the animals natural habitat.

In terms of tankmates, as already mentioned, seahorses are probably best left to their own system. Fast-moving fishes, feeding corals and most stinging life are inappropriate. Small peaceful community fishes may be okay, especially if those fishes rely on the same foodstuff (think mandarins, for example). Keep in mind, however, understocking is a good strategy to insure enough foodstuff for all inhabitants.

Given the right environment, a starfish can be a wonderful addition to a marine aquarium. Here are a few tips. Some retailers will divide starfishes into reef-compatible and non-reef-compatible as we do at Blue Reef Aquatics. Usually this refers to the predatory nature of a given animal and the voraciousness of its appetite. You will commonly see industrious sand sifting starfish from the genus Archaster, colorful orange and red starfish from the genus Fromia, and bold blue starfish from the genus Linckia.

There are a few of these animals you will probably want to avoid in a reef aquarium. For example, the green brittle star from the genus Ophiarachna is a well-known predatory fish eater. Basket stars are very difficult to keep alive, and knobbed starfishes from the genera Protoreastor, Pentaster, and Pentaceastor (e.g., chocolate chip starfishes) will likely eat clams, oysters, and coral.